Ask An Expert: Beginner's Guide To Leather

Since 1941, Coach has been dedicated to crafting luxury that lasts with high-quality leather bags. 
As the Original American House of Leather, our in-house experts have knowledge on everything from how to care for leather bags, how patina develops and beyond. 
Read on for answers to all your leather-related questions.

As the  Original American House of Leather since 1941, Coach has been dedicated for years to crafting high-quality leather that’s made to be lived in and lived with. A  leather Coach bag is more than your average accessory—it’s an extension of your self-expression every day.

Founded in New York as a family-run leathergoods company that’s transformed into a fashion house known around the world today, it’s safe to say we know a lot about leather. Here, we provide all the answers to your most commonly asked leather-related questions—read on for everything you need to know.

What’s the history behind Glovetanned Leather? 

Invented in the 1950s by Coach founder Miles Cahn, Glovetanned Leather is part of our origin story (and what made us a household name). A bold departure from the pristine leathers of the past, Glovetanned Leather was designed to get better with time. Its beauty comes from every sign of wear, based on the soft yet durable nature of a baseball glove. For decades, Coach has crafted bags with this signature leather, and today, many vintage Coach pieces showcase its enduring quality. 

What’s the difference between Crossgrain and Soft Grain leather? 

Scratch-resistant with a finely grained surface, Crossgrain is ultra-durable, making it the perfect material for more structured bags. Soft Grain, on the other hand, is crafted of lightweight goatskin and has a silky soft hand-feel. Because its grain varies, each piece is one-of-a-kind with a beautiful drape and natural satin sheen. 

What leathers are considered most durable for everyday use? 

Crossgrain Leather: Inspired by the everyday hustle, crossgrain is lightweight and durable with a finely grained surface. 

Pebbled Leather: Soft and easy going, pebbled leather is recognizable by its special namesake grain. Its textured surface resists scratches and scuffs. 

Glovetanned Leather: Soft, supple and as durable as its namesake the baseball glove, Glovetanned earned us our name as the  Original American House of Leather. Wear it out to wear it in. It only gets more beautiful with age. 

What is leather patina and how does it develop? 

Patina refers to the beautiful, unique marks and well-loved character that develops on a leather’s surface. It’s the mellowed finish, darker tones, increased sheen and smoother feel that makes the surface of your handbag look more dimensional. Sunlight, exposure to air, and even the day-to-day handling of your bag will contribute to the patina your leather develops over time.  

How can I clean and maintain my leather bag without damaging it? 

All our leathers are crafted to last—and naturally, they need a little care from time to time to keep them looking their best. To  care for a leather bag, you’ll want to follow the steps below. 

Clean it regularly with our  Leather Product Care Set, first wiping down the exterior with the cloth included before applying the leather-specific cleaner in circular strokes.
Condition your leather bag with our  Leather Moisturizer every three months to help keep your leather bag supple.
When not in use, store your leather bag carefully in a breathable cloth bag away from sunlight. You can also stuff it with tissue paper to help maintain its shape.

For  specialty leathers like suede, shearling and haircalf, use a dry cloth or have the material cleaned professionally if necessary.

What’s the best way to store my leather bag when not in use to maintain its structure and shape?  

When not in use, you’ll want to store your bag with care by following the steps below.  

To maintain its shape, stuff it with tissue paper and avoid hanging it by the straps as gravity can stretch out the material over time. 
Store it in a breathable cloth bag, like its original dust bag or even a pillowcase. Avoid using plastic, which can trap moisture and prevent air circulation.
Place your stored bag in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

For more information, check out our  leather care guide. 

Are Coach leathers sustainably sourced? 

We believe better-made things can help create a better-made future—and this starts with the materials we use in our products. We prioritize working with tanneries that have been rated gold or silver by the Leather Working Group, which means that they have achieved the highest environmental standards in the industry.

We’ve also partnered with the Savory Institute and Other Half Processing to support regenerative agricultural practices—those that help maintain and rejuvenate land, increase biological diversity and soil health, and could lead to increased carbon absorption (and a positive impact on the environment).

To learn more about our efforts to create a more circular fashion system, read about our  sustainability efforts,  Coach (Re)Loved program and  Coachtopia. 